Ashtur -Lost Legacy, forgotten communal harmony

Bidar is located in Karnataka, This place is located just 120 kms away from Hyderabad . The place can be well covered in a day including the majestic fort, but we decided to spend couple of days to look around leisurely.


We visited Bidar fort early in morning at 6.00 am to get few photos during sunrise. After fort we traveled few kilometers to reach Ashtur village.

I didn’t have a feeling that it would leave an everlasting impression in my heart. What’s there in the village, nothing expect few lightening stuck tombs. We very pretty early to place well laid roads with few archeological surveys of India boards welcomed us.




Early morning with few rain drops gave us a good scene for taking few snaps. We started studying the details of each tomb and was passing by each one of them. After few minutes we found a person who was about to perform his morning namaz came towards us and said “Do you want to know about this place” . We were surprised and said “Yes please”.



He said can you please wait few minutes before I perform my morning payers to my ancestors. We just sounded blank. He was carrying a jug of water and few flowers. Starting with the first tomb of Ahmed shah Al Bahamani wali he visited all the 11 tombs. While he was doing his prayers we just admired him and we were wondering did he say “His ancestors”



After payers he said he is one of direct decedents of Ahmed shah Bahamani . He gave us a big genealogical list from Ahmed shah to his name. He also showed us few of the papers cutting written about him by Hindu and Deccan chronicle daily’s. We were just surprised that he is leading a very noble life working as a carpenter.

It’s not the money but it’s a thought which makes you bigger. He starts with saying there is huge history behind this place. This place is example of great communal harmony for last 600 years.

“When sun comes in the morning the first ray doesn’t see if you are Hindu or Muslim it treats every body and everything in one line”

My ancestors has treated every human being with due respect irrespective of their caste and creed and I will try to follow them. He says with agony that today people think that I am mad because of his thoughts.

He takes us to each and every tomb and starts explaining about each of the qualities and specialties. He also said the story how lightning has stuck few tombs and destroyed them. He walks some distance and shows us the Persian painting of early Sufi saints who visited ashtur.

“Faith is the strongest force of earth”




Muslims find this place holy as they believe that the body of Sultan Shah lies here. Hindus believe that the Sultan's virtues made him a Sharana and he became one with the God after death. That he was born a Muslim is irrelevant to them.



The urs marks the king's death anniversary. The term urs literally means wedding with the divine. The concept is influenced by Sufism. While the Muslims organize a `Sandal Sharieff,' the Hindus participate in a late-night `arati,' in front of the tombstone.
The Muslims conduct the `Sandal Sharieff' to observe the king's death anniversary. The tomb is washed in rose water and decorated with flowers. Verses are read from the Koran, `Fajar Namaz' and `Salam.' `Chirag,' the holy lamp, is lighted.
The Hindus believe the benevolent king was an incarnation of Lord Mallikarjuna. The highlight of the observance is that it is inaugurated by a Hindu preacher.
May the spirit of secularism spread all over, May mankind rest in peace.

Unfulfilled Ajanta Journey and Khadi chawal

Route Plan :

Hyderabad > Zahirabad > Umarga > Naldurg > Solapur >Barsi > Beed > Aurangabad > Phradhapur > Ajanta > Ellora > Parbhani > Nanded > Nizambad > Hyderabad

Day Plan

Day 1 :
Hyderabad > Zahirabad > Umarga > Naldurg > Solapur

Day 2 :
Solapur > Barsi > Beed > Aurangabad > Phradhapur > Ajanta

Day 3 :
Ellora > Parbhani > Nanded

Day 4 :
Nanded > Nizambad > Hyderabad

Photos:

Road Trip

Day 1:

We guys were planning to start from Hyderabad on an Enfield 500 and Pulsar , as the enthusiasm was higher before the start of the travel , There were wonderful plans being laid. As per the plan there would NOT be any night driving.

As couples of our mates were stuck in office (Arun and Gagan) our initial plan of starting from Hyderabad from 2.30 PM was shattered and we started only at 6:00 PM, Oh ya no night driving , so you could imagine how the rest of the trip would be



Again riding high as we have to reach Sholapur(300 Odd kms) to sleep , occasionally taking SOTC (Not the travel agent  Its stop for Toilet and Coffee) .Half the way we realized that we are not going to have good amount of sleep as we might not reach Sholapur even by midnight .

We had a much relaxed dinner at Humnabad, We made a quick change of plan that we would not stop at Sholapur but rather stop some where near Naldurg which we thought would be a better town to stay, We crossed umarga even thought we saw decent(Not the DECENT ) place to stay, we wanted to stick to our plan of staying at Naldurg.

As the night was already up it might have been around 11.30 , we were little generous in helping a family whose car was broke down. Thought we couldn’t fix we were saying them what the problem would be, believing in our expertise. People around were surprised to see our Vehicle Number plate and were asking from where we were coming, we said were coming from Hyderabad and we traveling to Aurangabad. An old man in the shop just asked us why are we guys traveling in motorbike, apparently we didn’t have any answer we just gave him a smile and said we just wanted to.

We also suggested the family that they should rather stay in Naldurg as it was nearer rather than Umarga . An elder person in the family said thank you but he gave a weird look as we said Naldurg , We should have deciphered the meaning as they would have crossed Naldurg just few minutes before. Finally we crossed couple of small cliff in the ghat section and reached naldurg. We were looking at each other face as it was a very small town and we would not be surprised if we don’t find a place to stay. After wandering the town taking the same highway we found a Hotel with the good place for parking. As we were desperate to hit the bed our expectation wasnt a big cozy hotel. After considerable amount of knocking and howling, the gate keep opened the door. Hotel clerk showed us couple of rooms . Out of which we could not open one of the room as it was locked might be somebody was already in and he was surely in sound sleep as we couldn’t wake him up. The next room was looking a like an oldest possible cave converted into a room with plasters hanging everywhere.

After seeing this we got a mixed opinion, tired guys were ready to manage until we saw the wash room. We couldn’t understand if that a western toilet or old Indian style. Only the flush portion was hanging and no basin. We all could give only one reaction a huge tired laugh. We had only one option hit the road reach Sholapur and stay there.

We are on road again , we were determined in reaching Solapur, We were driving at the maximum speed possible as we would miss the whole night to sleep. Finally we reached Sholapur around 1 – 1:30. Now the problem is where to stay we roamed multiple places seeing from a biggest possible hotel to a medium one to rest. As its India we didn’t find problem in finding people on road even in middle of the night .We were asking with every single person “Kaka rukhne ke liya hotel kahin aas paas hai”. Every body would gave us their own direction. Amides the stray dog filled streets of Sholapur we finally found a hotel to stay.

Everybody were ready in a flash to sleep at their respective beds, we just said “Good night guys” oh ya our slogan , “No night driving from Tom”




Day 2 :

We guys managed to get some good sleep after getting ready and sipping Masala chai we hit the road next day, we made sure we asked some good direction to reach Ajanta ,ya plan was to reach Ajanta.

We were crossing multiple small towns on the way , we did ask for direction when ever possible , In spite of that we got missed . Thanks to the roaming mobiles we assembled again , As usual after a small agreement we realized the mistake was because it was Maharashtra. Every chowk was almost a “Sivaji Chowk” we took a sivaji chowk and they took other Sivaji Chowk . Learning of the day be careful when it’s Sivaji Chowk in Maharashtra

After having Poha, Chola Bhatura ,Coca cola we hit the road again , after traveling though the dusted road and scorching heat we reached Barsi. We knew that Barsi is a negative growth area and we wouldn’t be surprised if we don’t find a good place to eat. Luckily it wasnt bad but we preferred to go with a Chai. I promised guys to get them “Khadi chawal” so we wanted to go to Beed or Bhir however you want to call them.

We settled in a nice dhaba, a lemon guide or rather lot of lemon juice helped us to get us into lunch mode . I was first one to ask “Kaka Khadi chawal milega”, he said no, Still I was confident, I said guys were in MH we will get Khadi chawal we still have 2 more day. We were eating leisurely and relaxed for a good amount of time.

We Managed to drive through the cramped crowded street of Beed, Ya it was road raj, by the time I was taking pride in the control I am getting in driving a 500 CC Enfield. After recording few video clips about the historic importance of this place in Ramayana we went to a temple constructed by Vikramaditya’s sister. All I knew about Vikramaditya was “Vikram aur Bhetal” . But the local guys weren’t sure which vikramaditya was that I , II, or III.

An old man was patient enough to explain the wonders of the temple , we were so impressed and were just admiring this old man. He showed us a chariot which he owns, He is using that for campaigning during the election , ya he was own three time in the election .

We are back again on the way to Ajanta , by evening we were just cursing us , why the hell did we bring such a big backpack. After traveling from 500 plus Kms if somebody would have asked us which is the vital part in the body our answer would have been different . We now started to rest every 35- 40 Kms owing to pressure. Now everybody wants to drive because that was much easier than to sit holding the luggage.

Around 8.00 Pm we were on outskirts of Aurangabad, I desperately wanted to stick to the plan of staying in Ajanta, Arun was in peak of his frustration he was wanted to stay in Aurangabad itself. With divided options and long debate we decided to stop at Aurangabad. The argument was finished after arun trademark reply “Everybody talk now, I will do all the talking if we don’t get a place to stay in Ajanta”.

Though we reached Arungabad around 9:00 it took more than an hour to find a place to stay, after having a heavenly meal we were happy to occupy the cozy bed with relatively high set temp in Air condition. Good night !! Oh ya no night driving guys at least from tom



Day 3:

We got up with swallow eyes as a symbol we being traveling for couple of days now. After having hot samosae and chai we started for Daulatabad fort. At scorching heat we managed to see the daulatabad fort . Though by this time the video making was becoming little difficult and as every time we have to read the sign board about the history details and them repeat the same.

We also saw the Poor mans taj mahal on the way to mystery place Kailash temple. Aurangzeb one of the not so good rulers of mughal dynasty was trying to mimic his father’s Taj Mahal. May be due to scarcity of available fund he has to build a look alike taj mahal. Though from a long distance it might look like marble but defiantly not as good as Taj Mahal, We are discussing how good as father Shajahan was, did he refuse to give money to his son to build a monument like the same , May be that is one of the reason he captured his won father.

Anyways after good couple of Sugarcane juice we reached kailash temple , defiantly it’s a mystery place all we could say was how much time those guys had . I mean to cut through the entire rock would take a full life time. We are floating our own concept that it would have been an open competition where every artiest made his own sculpture. What ever it might be it was a wonderful place.

Oh it’s a late lunch time , never mind we stopped in one of the numerous Dhaba , “Kaka Kahdi Chawal Milege” was the sound from our table. Again no luck we settled with the normal thali. After heavy lunch we were just relaxing .

Oh, why don’t we put our bikes in bus and then travel by bus ? came an idea out of exhaustion. But I was persistent to complete the trip in bike . To sell this idea I took lot of time and I have to compromise on at least sending our big backpacks on courier.

Deviating from main plan we started hunting for courier to send our travel bags. After couple of vein efforts we realized that its Sunday. Guys we only have couple of option one carry the bag or donate few clothes so that our bags would weigh less. Donating levis and lee was not a good idea so we decided to carry them back .

After traveling an exhaustive amount of time , we reached a point where we thought we missed the road . we found few petty shops where we asked “kaka nanded kaise jana hai” . Then came the wonder reply from , see you guys missed the Main highway , To catch the main highway you guys need to travel back . But you have a “Very good” State highway which will join National highway after 55 Kms. In Tamil comedian vadivelu’s style “Nambi ponoam”. To travel 55 kms it took more than one and half hour that was the condition of the road. The road was so deserted that we thought we are driving somewhere in between the wheat fields. Learning of the day “good might be a relative term”

After lot of struggle we reached a point where SH was meeting NH , just to make sure we asked couple of guys is this the right road to nanded. Then came a similar reply , the NH might be little long you guys can take a SH which is good and shorter. We all said in Corus “Thank you Kaka”


After having a quick dinner we are back in road traveling in middle of the night to reach to nanded. Even on the last day we couldn’t stick to our plan of not driving in the night, We were exited to see a milestone saying Nanded 10 Kms, by this time a tea shop guys was making Poha for early birds. We just realized that time is 3 of clock. “Yaar abhi to 10 hi Km hai” will have poha and chai then get some sleep before going to Guruduvara

Unfortunatly we still believe that the milestone was wrong we had to drive 24 kms instead of 10 kms, Finally we reached guruduvara staying places , Our not so good sardar goes to get a room for staying. After few minutes our sardar comes with head down “ Yaar aaj tak aise gali nahi suna ” an elder spiritual sardar easily found that this guys had alcohol last night and just threw the room keys at him and said get lost.



Day 4 :

After catching up some sleep , we wer getting ready to guruduvara. To freshen up we had booked hotel  . After having darshan we had a wonderful Langar. Tired body and mind had little activity to do.

Final day and return trip is always tiring, When you are driving a bike and when you know you have to travel 300 + Kms you are morally down. To our plight it was an eclipse we were getting dehydrated every 40 kms, “Anna neembu pani unda” was our question once we crossed the Andhra Pradesh border.

Driving though the dried lands in summer during eclipse was a terrific experience, We could only feel hot waves flowing in double the speed of our motor bikes. Then came the interesting thing Again a milestone saying Hyderabad 150 Kms, Excited drivers stepped on the gas to cover the distance. After traveling for more than 75 kms we say a board Hyderabad 135 Kms. WTF !!! we could imagine a milestone marked wrongly but 75 km? it was crazy. We were helpless to know we took a diverted road.

With unavailability of ATM and less cash we managed to have our last snack. We pulled in most of our money to have sandwich and Manchurians. “Anna Kadhi Chawal Undha” came a question from our table. Babu dinner ippadu kaadhu, also we don’t have Kadhi chawal was the answer.

After couple of stop we reached 301 Aditya Mist, Kondapur , Hyderabad, We made some Dhal Chawal not Kadhi chawal  for the dinner.

We felt we achieved something except for we had to take a different position for couple of days while we sleep.

Introduction

I have been travelling a lot may be just for the sake of travelling. My recent affinity towards Archaeology has changed this trend a little bit. I have started to plan few of the trip based on archaeological sites/evacuation sites. Not to mention there might be few reference to epigraphy too. I strongly accept the words of our Indiana Jones :)that 70 % of archaeology is done in library/computers but i am man of facts in most of the case, Which make to see, analyse the things before i conclude. This nature makes to go to the place before concluding on historic facts.

I am sure most of trip/place would be of tourist nature which i would be describing here. I have made sure that not all the business travel is not just the boring travel confined to the cubicle in office. There might be few posts which would mention about the breaks which i have taken during my business trip.

I wish i could maintain this travel trend and my personal album is always full of exciting photos.